Tag Archives | Diesel Trucks

Old Trucks Are Like Old Friends

?Old Trucks Are Like Old Friends

Sometimes people give me strange looks when I get out of my old truck in parking lots. It’s as if they’re saying “”Boy, can’t she afford something better than that?””

And I’ll admit, my truck does look rough. It definitely needs a new paint job, and the upholstery is worn. But the only way my truck will get traded in on a new one is if the day comes when it’s just impossible to make repairs. I don’t have to drive very far and don’t go anywhere very often because as a freelancer, I work from home. So I think and hope that we have a few more years together before that happens.

So what if I have to use a key to unlock the door, and the seats aren’t heated? The heater and air conditioner work perfectly, so I’m always comfortable.

My truck is an old friend. It’s a 1991 Chevy � Ton, four-wheel drive with a 454 engine, and it has gotten me places other people are afraid to go. Like through deep mud and snow berms and up steep dirt roads. We’ve been together so long that I don’t have to think about how much to accelerate to make it up an icy hill or how much power I’ll need to slog through a muddy stretch of road. We work together – just like old friends should.

Not only that, it fits me perfectly. From the size and shape of the seat, to the angle of the steering wheel, to the distance to the foot pedals – my truck and I fit each other. And it handles and rides like a dream – so smooth. If that wasn’t enough, any time I want to really get moving all I have to do is touch the gas pedal and we’ll be zooming.

The only problem comes when I try to drive some ordinary car, or my husband’s diesel truck. I keep thinking there’s something wrong because nothing happens when I touch the gas. Then I remember, “”Oh yes, on this vehicle I have to push on the gas pedal.””

Over the years my truck has had to have a few repairs – and right now there’s a pesky oil leak. But hey, after traveling over 223,000 miles, it’s entitled to an ache or a pain here and there.

I’m in favor of keeping old friends – whether they’re humans, old horses, or trucks that have served me well. I see no point in trading them in for new ones, but instead choose to nurture and care for the ones I have.

Now when it comes to old computers – I’m not so loyal.

DPF, What and Where Is It- How Does it Work- Should I Buy a DPF Delete Kit

?DPF, What and Where Is It? How Does it Work? Should I Buy a DPF Delete Kit?

This is a question we get a million times a day. Since 2007 all Dodge Cummins 6.7, Ford Powerstroke 6.4, and Chevy Duramax 6.6 trucks come from the factory equipped with a particulate filter to meet tougher emissions standards. A diesel particulate filter (DPF) is a device that traps the soot and unburnt fuel from diesel combustion. You may have noticed if you have one the 07+ diesel pickups that it never puts out any black smoke at all. The DPF will capture 90% or better of all harmful diesel emissions. Once the DPF has become “”full”” of soot, it will need to have a regeneration cycle in order to burn all the soot out. You may have noticed a light on your dash from time to time that alerts you that the DPF is in “”regen”” or “”cleaning filter.””

Basically what is happening during this process is that the engine’s computer has decided from the information that it receives from the sensors installed in the exhaust that the DPF has filled up past it’s acceptable limit. The computer then opens the EGR (exhaust recirulation valve) introducing hot exhaust into the intake to help get get exhaust gas temps higher and also injects a small shot of fuel into the cylinders when the exhaust valves are open. The raised exhaust temps and the small amount of fuel then burn out the particulate (soot) that the DPF has collected since it’s last regen. Once the computer gets readings from the sensors in the exhaust that the filter is flowing an acceptable limit again, it ends the regen cycle. The frequency of this cleaning cycle is different from vehicle to vehicle depending on use, mileage, and engine condition.

Myths about the DPF system:

1. The lines on the side of the exhaust are fuel lines that dump fuel directly into the filter and the other connections are glow or spark plugs that ignite the fuel to clean the filter.

Not at all. As I stated above, the fuel needed for cleaning the dpf is entered into the engine cylinders by route of the regular fuel injectors during the exhaust stroke of the engine. A small shot of fuel is pushed out with the rest of the exhaust gas. The metal lines everyone sees on the side of the DPF filter are for a pressure sensor that is usually attached to the side of the transmission or frame. They have the long metal tubes on them to get the temperature of the exhaust they are measuring down before it reaches the sensor. Again, I don’t care what the tech at the dealership says about those lines, if he says they are fuel lines (which I hear all the time), he is an idiot and you should remove your truck from there as quickly as possible. The other wires you see going to the exhaust before and after the DPF filter are not spark or glow plugs. They are thermocouples that measure exhaust temperature. The computer uses exhaust temperature and pressure before, at, and after the dpf to measure how plugged the dpf is and when it’s time to perform a regen.

2. I can just remove the DPF filter and put a piece of pipe in there.

Sorry, no. If you remove the DPF filter and make no adjustments to the engine’s computer, it will enter either a limp mode or a constant state of regen. Simply put, all the sensors and the dpf have to be in perfect working order when running the stock vehicle’s programming or else your truck will go haywire and you will not be able to drive it.

Common problems with the DPF system:

1. Poor Fuel economy – This is the number one complaint we get from customers who have trucks equipped with a DPF. Most customers who traded in their pre-07 diesel pickups have been completely unhappy with the lack of fuel mileage that used to enjoy. The average fuel economy we hear people report on the DPF equipped trucks is usually 12-14 mpg. Many of these folks traded in trucks that did 18-22 mpg and are completely disgusted.

2. Excessive regens – Many of our customers who use their trucks for work complain about very frequent regens that kill their fuel mileage and performance. Many customers who work outdoors in the winter were used to leaving their old diesels run all day while they were on the job site. The DPF equipped trucks don’t handle this very well. The cooler idling temperature of the exhaust gas will soot up the DPF on an accelerated rate. It is not uncommon for these customers to be on their second or third filter change because the truck went into constant limp mode. The usually dealership response is: “”You can’t let these new trucks idle.”” Which goes over pretty well with guys who are stuck at a job site five miles back in the woods all day and the temperature never gets above ten degrees.

3. High replacement cost – If any of you have had to pay for a DPF replacement out of warranty, you probably had a heart attack when you got the bill. A replacement DPF (which isn’t available aftermarket yet) runs roughly $2000-$2600 for the just the filter alone. And hears the scary part. DPF life is estimated between 120,000 and 150,000 miles. If you plan on keeping your new diesel pickup for a few hundred thousand miles better start a DPF fund.

4. Restricts performance modifications – With the new diesel pickups, the potential for horsepower improvements is tremendous. We have taken all three brands of pickups to close to or over 500 rear wheel horsepower and 1000 ft/lbs of torque with just intake, exhaust, and programming modifications. Never has so much performance been so easy and affordable while still maintaining street manners. The only problem is anything past a small tow type tune will aggravate the particulate filter. Turning up the engine will produce more soot which will plug the dpf sooner causing more regens. Many customers who run a 100 horsepower program report very poor fuel mileage and constant regens.

What can be done to extend DPF life and limit regens?:

Since we are not allowed by law to remove the DPF system, we are stuck with it if you want to comply with Federal emissions and keep your truck legal. Here are a few tips to help mileage and DPF life:

1. Use the right fuel – It is absolutely crucial and necessary to use ultra low sulphur fuel in any vehicle equipped with a particulate filter. High amounts of sulfur in the fuel will plug the DPF immediately. We get lots of questions from farmers about the red fuel. As far as we know you can’t buy high sulfur fuel commercially anymore. We have a refinery roughly ten minutes from the shop that refines diesel. Both fuels are exactly the same, their is just red dye added to the offroad fuel. It won’t hurt anything to run the low sulphur red fuel. The other question we get asked is about additives. Our advice is to only run products that were made for diesel fuel. Power Service, K100, Standyne, and Flash Lube for example are brands that we see no problems running. DO NOT add any sort of homemade fixes. Adding a quart of saw oil, atf, or anything else probably isn’t a good idea. It will burn dirty and may clog the dpf.

2. Use the proper engine oil – Make sure you are using an engine oil that is rated properly for your truck. Some engine oil gets burnt up in combustion no matter what. If you are running oil that is not formulated for a DPF equipped vehicle, it will soot up the filter sooner.

3. Keep idling to a minimum – Simply put, idling contributes to dpf problems. Period. Keeping the rpm’s elevated during will help. Keeping idling to a minimum is best for these trucks.

4. Run it hard once in a while – Don’t be afraid once in a while when going up a hill to matt the throttle for a few seconds. Running the truck hard and getting things nice and warm will help clear out soot deposits.

I want to remove the DPF. What can I do and what will be the benefits?

First thing, it is absolutely against the law to remove or disable any emissions device for any vehicle that is going to be operated on the public highways. If you decide you want to remove emissions equipment for any reason, it is solely up to you and your mechanic to decide what is safe and legal for your application. I do not condone nor advise removing the dpf or any other emissions device. All the examples I speak about below were tested off-road and the mileage tests were performed on our Superflow chassis dyno that simulate the load the truck has alone and when towing.

We have done some testing on all three brands of trucks to see what results could be achieved by removing the dpf filter system. There are many products available for off-road and competition use that will disable the dpf system. You have to run some sort of aftermarket device to disable the system or there will be problems when you remove the DPF. There are several options that will allow the removal of the DPF without any horsepower increase and also several options that will add up to 250 horsepower along with removing the DPF.

Here are the test trucks we have done controlled tests on our chassis dyno with:

Truck #1: 2007.5 Ford F-350 6.4 PowerstrokeMods: S&B Cold Air Intake, Edge Race Evolution, DPF Delete pipe (rest factory exhaust)Stock RWHP: 285After Mods RWHP: 471Average Mileage stock: 11.8 mpgAverage Mileage mods: 17.4 mpg

Notes: Very basic delete package. Overall mileage jumped 5.6 mpg on simulated highway driving. Horsepower levels range from 40HP increase to 185 hp increase on the EDGE Race Evolution. Stock air box would pull filter restriction gauge with clean factory filter on even lower levels. Air box upgrade a must for this package.

Truck #2: 2008 Dodge 3500 6.7 CumminsMods: Full 4″” DPF and Cat delete exhaust, Flo-Pro DPF electronics packageStock RWHP: 294Mod RWHP: 311Average Mileage Stock: 12.1 mpgAverage Mileage Mods: 18.9 mpg

Notes: We were really impressed with this package. The Flo-Pro electronics only disable the DPF system and add absolutely no horsepower. The free flowing exhaust showed some horsepower gains. Mileage test was simulated highway driving with a truck weight of 8700lbs. Great mileage gain of 6.8 over stock. Inexpensive delete package for off-road work trucks.

Truck #3: 2008 F-550 6.4 Powerstroke

Mods: DPF delete into dual 5″” exhaust, S&B Cold Air Intake, Power Hungry Performance Gryphon programmerStock RWHP: 268Mod RWHP: 447Avg HWY Mileage Stock: 9.2 mpgAvg HWY Mileage Mods: 17.3 mpgAvg TOW mileage Stock: 6.4 mpgAvg TOW mileage Mods: 14.2 mpg

Notes: This is a package that we put together to simulate the gains possible on one of the hard working trucks that tows alot. The horsepower increase was dramatic, but the mileage gains were tremendous. We simulated a truck weight of 11,500 lbs for the highway tests and a trailer weight of 12,000 lbs for the tow test. The highway mileage tests of the mods showed a 8.1 mpg gain while the towing test also showed an amazing 8 mpg gain.

Truck #4: 2009 Dodge 2500 Cummins 6.7Mods: 5″” straight DPF/Cat delete exhaust, S&B Cold Air Intake, H&S XRT programmerAvg HWY mileage stock:14.6 mpgAvg HWY mileage mods:21.2 mpg

Notes: We only did simulated hwy mileage tests on this truck. We just used the XRT programmer to remove the DPF functions from the computer and left the horsepower stock. The XRT has horsepower increase levels of 60, 120, 175 horsepower. It will also shut the egr system off as well.

Truck #5: 2008 Ford F-350 6.4 PowerstrokeMods: 4″” DPF delete pipe, 5″” MBRP dpf back exhaust, S&B cold air intake, Innovative Diesel custom tuned SCT LivewireStock RWHP:289Mod RWHP: 536Stock MPG: 11.6 mpgMod MPG: 17.4 mpg

Notes: This truck was an animal! The custom tunes were some of the smoothest shifting of any of the options we have tried and the power was crazy. There was a 247 rear wheel horsepower increase over stock on the highest level and the rear wheel torque was over 1000 ft/lbs! You would think there would be a serious drop in the mileage department, but we were surprised to see the truck gain nearly 6 mpg at even this horsepower level.

In conclusion, if you are looking for some serious horsepower for the drag strip or the pulling track, these new common rail diesels make serious horsepower with very little modification once the dpf is out of the way. Also, if you only operated your truck off-road there are some extremely impressive fuel economy gains to be had by removing the dpf filter. It is really too bad that we couldn’t run the trucks on public roads with the dpf removed. We truly would have incredibly powerful trucks that get great mileage and have wonderful street manners.

Thanks for reading,John Anderson

2007 Ford Powerstroke EGR System – Where it is, Why it is a Problem, and What to Do About It

?2003-

In 2003 Ford introduced the 6.0 Powerstroke to the world. This is the same engine that International calls the VT365. This engine has received a really bad reputation in the diesel world due to reliability issues. We will tackle one of the problem areas here today, the EGR system.

Before I go any farther, please understand that the EGR system is an emissions device. It is against Federal law to tamper, remove, or render an emissions system inoperable. Please understand that all the information in this article was collected from off-road only trucks and I do not endorse the removal or tampering with of any emissions system of a vehicle that is used on public roads. All the information obtained for this article is from testing vehicles on our Superflow chassis dyno in the shop. It is up to you and your mechanic to decide what steps you want to take in modifying your truck. Use this information at your own risk.;)

1. What is the EGR system and why do I need it?

One of the most frequently asked questions we receive is what is the EGR system and why do I need it? We don’t have to go into long technical descriptions here. EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. To meet certain emissions standards, it is necessary to reintroduce exhaust gases into the intake air in order to bring certain elements in the exhaust within levels set for that year of truck. Of course you wouldn’t want to dump hot exhaust gas directly into the intake manifold, so that is why there is an EGR cooler. The cooler has engine coolant running through it and looks very much like a regular radiator or heater core. The exhaust gas passes through this small radiator and lowers the exhaust gas to a temperature that it is able to be introduced into the intake system at. On the 6.0 Powerstroke engine, it is an extremely simple system consisting only of a cooler and a valve. When the engine’s computer decides the EGR valve should open under certain conditions, the exhaust gas is let out of the cooler and into the intake manifold. And here we have the first hint of a problem; the exhaust gas is always in the EGR cooler.

2. What goes wrong with the EGR system and how can it hurt my engine?

The big problem here is heat. It is possible for a completely stock engine to produce exhaust gas temperatures well in excess of 1000 degrees. So imagine taking 1000-1500 degree air and constantly running it through your heater core day after day. How long do you think it would last? Next, put that heater core in an enclosed box that has to endure not only the high temperatures, but also 10-50 psi of exhaust backpressure that is built before the turbo it and the exhaust manifold. Even though the cooler is made out of materials that are meant for higher temperatures, it is not a matter of if, but when your cooler will fail. Best case scenario is that the cooler just leaks a little coolant into the exhaust system and it passes out the exhaust and you just notice some coolant loss. Worst case scenario, exhaust pressure is able to enter a break in the cooler and enter the coolant system which only runs at 12 or so psi max. The high pressure will ruin head gaskets and oil coolers. They simply weren’t designed to withstand that much pressure in the coolant system. Also, the coolant system cannot keep the truck cool with that much pressure in the system. This is why you will hear about or may have experienced coolant puking out of the filler cap on the degas bottle after pulling a load up a long hill. The cap is made to bleed off pressure above 12-14 psi. The increased coolant temp and extra pressure being pushed in from the exhaust will push coolant right out the cap. We have a truck in the shop right now with a blown EGR cooler and head gasket. The pressure in the coolant system had gotten so high that it blew one of the hoses right off the coolant bottle. This truck was a bone stock work truck. This blown cooler problem only gets worse when you put a programmer on the truck that raises exhaust gas temperatures several hundred degrees. If you put your programmer on the highest setting, hook to a heavy trailer, and then go tugging up a long grade, I suggest you put your mechanic on speed dial. You will need his services soon.

The other problem with the system is that the EGR valve constantly gets coked up with exhaust soot. The dirty exhaust gas passing by it deposits soot on the valve surfaces. Sooner or later the valve will get enough soot on it that it can’t close and operate normally. Exhaust gas is constantly pouring into the intake manifold now. This condition causes severe drivability issues, poor fuel economy, and low power. If you have owned a 6.0 Powerstroke for very long, you have no doubt replaced, cleaned, or had your EGR valve checked because of this problem.

3. What can we do to fix this problem?

There are a couple of fixes to this problem. The first and most obvious is to simply remove the cooler. Unfortunately, that would be against the law. We do sell an EGR delete kit to do just that if you are going to use your truck for off road only. This kit completely removes the cooler from the truck. There is a line that bypasses the coolant from where it comes out of the oil cooler directly to where it once came out of the EGR cooler into the intake manifold. There is also a pipe that replaces the factory up-pipe between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. Some years have a scoop in the factory pipe to help direct exhaust gas into the cooler. Since the cooler isn’t going to be there anymore, we need to replace that pipe with one that doesn’t have the flange for the cooler nor the scoop. There is some debate on how much difference in performance replacing the up-pipe actually makes, but I personally would just like the stupid scoop out of there if it was my truck. Also, we are removing one more place to have an exhaust leak by not leaving the factory cooler flange with some sort of block off in it.

The other fix is to replace the cooler with a “”performance”” one that is not suppose to rupture. I have never personally installed one of these myself. I really don’t believe in them. Even if the cooler will never pop with a better unit in there, you would still be getting exhaust gas into the intake system. If you have ever torn down a 6.0 Powerstroke, you would be amazed at the amount of soot that collects on the intake passages and intake valves. Letting dirty exhaust gas into the intake manifold is just a bad idea the whole way around. If you are on a tight budget, still under warranty, or worried about not having the cooler in there for emissions, you could just block the stock cooler off. The quickest and best low budget fix is to put a freeze plug in either end of the cooler and weld it solid. This way no exhaust gas can enter the cooler nor can any coolant exit if the cooler ever ruptured. You still have the dilemma of the scoop in the exhaust pipe, but this low buck fix will work ok if you can’t afford the delete kit to do it right. With this being said, I would still install the bypass kit on my own personal truck just to be rid of the whole mess for good.

4. Will deleting the cooler affect the way my truck runs? Will I get a check engine light?

The answer to the first question is yes. You should see an increase in fuel mileage, a little quicker spool up of the turbo, and usually a little lower EGT’s. There are no negative performance effects from removing the cooler no matter what your friendly Ford technician tells you. It seems like a waste of your money to install a high flow air filter or cold air intake system if you have hot, dirty exhaust gas pouring into the system just past it. As for the check engine light, you shouldn’t get one at all as long as you leave the EGR valve in the manifold and plugged in. There is absolutely no reason to remove it from the system once you have removed the cooler. The computer can open and close it as many times as it wants. There is no feedback loop that lets the computer know whether or not the exhaust gas made it into the intake manifold when the valve is open. The computer will stay happy just opening and closing the valve at will and no check engine light will be lit. There are some delete kits out there that have a block off plate for the port where the EGR valve goes. I don’t recommend installing them. For starters, there is no reason to block it off if you have the cooler deleted since no exhaust can get through the valve. Second, you will have to leave the valve plugged in and laying on the engine to stave off check engine lights which is kind of amateurish at best.

5. Is there anything I can do to prolong my EGR cooler life if I want to leave it in?

If you don’t want to remove your cooler for fear of black helicopters and jail time for tampering with Federal emissions devices, there are a couple of things you can do. First off, the lower you can keep your exhaust gas temperatures the better. Installing a high flow exhaust will help lower your EGTS considerably. A bigger more efficient intercooler like the Banks Technicooler or the Spearco upgrade will also help. Installing a turbo that moves more air like the Garrett Stage 1 will also help lower EGTS. And lastly, installing a pyrometer to keep on eye on exhaust gas temps will enable you to back out of the throttle when they get too high. Also making sure you run oil that has the right certification for your engine will help keep soot down a little.

In conclusion, I firmly believe all the horror stories of multiple blown head gaskets can be blamed on two things: First is extremely high timing in some of the first performance programmers that were introduced. They simply didn’t know right away that the 6.0 would puke the gaskets if more than 12 degrees of timing was used for the really hot programs. The 7.3’s would stand up to that much timing and more no problem. Secondly, I believe blown EGR coolers contributed to then and still are causing blown head gaskets today. I understand the need for cleaner emissions, but at what cost?

Thanks for reading,

John Anderson

Dodge RAM 2500 Review1

?Dodge RAM 2500 Review

In 1994, the Dodge Ram changed the truck industry by showing customers that full-sized pickup trucks could resemble more than cinderblock shape. The Ram 2500 boasts rugged, muscular appearance that was inspired by big rig trucks, especially the prominent grill and shouldered fender design. When the Ram introduced revamped look in 1999, it caused sales to double in the US.

The Ram 2500 is the 3rd generation of this truck and boasts an even stronger engine and body lineup, along with a variety of cab styles. Aside from the standard cab, buyers can choose the four door cab or mega cab for extra space. The V8 5.7 liter engine is capable of 600 pound-feet of raw torque, making it the perfect truck for hauling heavy loads or driving through difficult terrain. The imposing style and impressive power of this vehicle has gained it a loyal set of fans amongst serious truckers.

Styling Options

Ram diesel trucks for sale come with four wheel or two wheel options. Buyers can also pick a variety of trim configurations and body styles. The mega cab will have a short storage bed, while the standard cab has a longer bed. The crew cab can be equipped with either one.

There are three trim levels: luxurious Laramie, volume-selling SLT, and basic ST. The higher trim levels provide optional and standard niceties such as a hard-drive navigational system, leather upholstery, Bluetooth, and automatic climate control. If you are buying used diesel trucks for sale, you can equip your ram with off-road packages for outdoor driving.

Engine

All Ram 2500 trucks are equipped with the standard 5.7 liter V8 engine. This hefty motor features a five speed automatic transmission, making it fairly easy to drive if you are not used to trucks. If you want additional towing capability, purchase the 6.7 turbo liter upgrade that produces 350 horsepower. Buyers can choose between a six speed automatic or manual transmission.

Conclusion

In summary, the Dodge Ram 2500 is an extremely capable and versatile heavy-duty truck. Its comfortable ride, wide variety of body style, and powerful engine make it a favorite amongst diehard truckers. The interior is better than most trucks, with materials and designs that you would expect to find on a luxury car or SUVs. An abundance of attractive accents and soft-touch materials almost make it too fancy for a utilitarian truck. However, it is more than able to survive in the roughest of environmental conditions.

New Features of the 2011 Chevrolet Silverado Heavy Duty Trucks

?New Features of the 2011 Chevrolet Silverado Heavy Duty Trucks

The 2011 Chevrolet Silverado heavy duty trucks have some exciting new features that make them the most exciting models to hit floors for awhile. From new frames to new technology, you will be surprised at how much you want this new Chevy heavy duty truck.

The 2011 heavy duty truck models all have new frames to improve ride and durability. Eleven all new full boxed frame assemblies with increased cross sections and more high strength steel give the trucks a higher towing capacity. The front sections are also hydro formed.

They also have a completely redesigned independent front suspension system that offers a greater front axle weight rating. This enables a snow plow to be used on all four wheel drive cab configurations. This improved suspension uses a pair of urethane jounce bumpers on each side instead of one for improved load management.

The heavy trucks also sport a new asymmetrical leaf spring rear suspension. It minimizes axle hop and enhances traction control efficiency. The 2500 models feature a two stage design, while the 3500 models have a three stage design.

There is a new powertrain combination of the Duramax 6.6L diesel and Allison 1000 six speed automatic transmission. This combo helps enable new features such as the exhaust brake system. This combination is expected to deliver the best fuel economy for this truck segment.

A powertrain also returns to the heavy duty trucks. The Vortec 6.0L gas V8 with variable valve timing with the strengthened version of the Hydra-Matic 6L90 six speed automatic transmission delivers excellent performance and efficiency. It also gives a greater emphasis on low rpm power.

Another new feature, only on the Duramax models, is an exhaust brake system. This is a driver selectable feature that uses the turbine control of the turbocharger and the compression of the engine to generate backpressure which slows the truck without applying the brakes. The brake system allows for effortless driving and teaming and prolongs the brake life and prevents overheating.

The brake feel and performance is also improved as the standard four wheel disc system was revamped to deliver smoother, immediate and confident feeling performance. The front and rear rotors are larger in diameter and width to support their increased capacity, weight ratings and trailering ratings.

The longer wheelbases and wider front/rear tracks also enhance the ride and handling characteristics of the 2500 and 3500. This gives them a greater feeling of smoothness and control.

There are many new safety features included now such as StabiliTrak electronic stability control system on the single rear wheel models, new high strength steel tubular frame cross member, seat pelvic/thorax and head curtain side air bags, available rear backup camera, trailer sway control system on single rear wheel models, hill start assist and segment exclusive OnStar 9.0.

Dodge Diesel Performance

?Dodge Diesel Performance

The Dodge Cummins diesel is a favorite of many diesel enthusiasts because of how many modifications can be done to it. The Dodge Cummins diesel comes stock with great power and fuel economy and can be tweaked to get diesel fuel mileage in the upper twenties and some even report low thirties in mpg. That is phenomenal economy for a truck. They can also be turned into ground pounding monsters. Today we will take a look at a few of the modifications that can be done to make the vehicle either more economical or more powerful.

First the most popular modification for any diesel is a performance chip. These come in chips, modules and programmers. All have the same basic functions although they will all alter the fueling in slightly different ways and have a variety of safety features. Generally for a conservative driver, with almost any diesel chip about three to four mpg increases can be achieved. Most of these chips add about 120 horse power on their top setting. There are some extreme chips though that will add about 230 hp and over 400 torque to the dodge Cummins diesel.

Probably the second most popular modification for the Dodge Cummins Diesel is performance diesel fuel injectors. Upgraded injectors can also add economy for a conservative driver. The injectors come in stages that range from 50 hp to 150 hp over stock, and even more extreme injectors can be custom made. 50 hp injectors would be for someone looking for a little more power and better economy. 150 hp injectors would be considered extreme. They also come in complete injector replacements or just nozzle or injector tip upgrades.

For any diesel that is being modified, a higher flow exhaust should be added to help it keep exhaust gas temperatures down and to relieve engine stress. Most people upgrade the size of the entire exhaust from the turbo. Others use the Aero Exhaust which is a muffler replacement only. The design of the Aero Exhaust increases the speed of the exhaust like a jet would as the exhaust flows through it. On the 2005 Dodge Cummins diesel the Aero Exhaust adds 19 hp and 38 dyno tested torque by just replacing the muffler.

Another popular modification is the cold air intake which allows more air into the engine which helps to combust a higher percentage of the fuel. This gets more power to the wheels instead of out the tail pip in a big black cloud.

8 Reasons Your Next Truck Should Be Powered by a Diesel Engine1

?8 Reasons Your Next Truck Should Be Powered by a Diesel Engine

Better Fuel Economy: Diesel engines use compression ignition instead of spark plugs to start the combustion process. Using compression as the ignition source, combined with the higher energy content of diesel fuel, provides a much more efficient engine which requires less fuel to operate than a gasoline engine. A diesel engine is also able to operate at peak torque at lower RPM, like you would typically see at cruising speeds, further boosting fuel economy.

More Power: A turbodiesel engine can produce much more peak torque than a gasoline engine of equal size, and maintain peak torque over a broader RPM spectrum.This provides for much more power throughout the operating range, less downshifts for improved fuel economy, and increased payload ratings.

Higher Towing Capability: Due to the stout structure and additional torque of a diesel engine, payloads on diesel powered trucks are much higher than those on similarly sized gasoline V8 powered trucks. If you have something large to tow, a diesel will make the task much easier and provide the best fuel economy possible while loaded.

Aftermarket Support: Diesel powered trucks are receiving much more attention from the aftermarket than gasoline powered trucks due partly to the fact that diesel engines are easy to tune for more performance. Where a few simple bolt on parts may increase your gas powered truck’s performance by 50-75 horsepower, the same parts could take your diesel to extreme performance levels. How does an additional 200-350 horsepower sound? (Based on performance testing of a tuner, cold air intake, and exhaust system; the three most common and readily available engine modifications.)

Driving Experience: If your any sort of automotive enthusiast, or just like a truck that can run through the gears fast, diesel is the way to go. Just remember to hang on once the turbocharger spools, because you will be in for one wild ride. Diesel engines produce gobs of torque at low RPM, which pushes you back in your seat as the truck takes off when you start getting into the throttle.

Engine Longevity: Diesel engines operate at lower RPM and have much stronger engine parts than comparable gasoline engines. This translates into increased engine life, with diesel engines generally lasting up to 2x longer than gasoline engines before needing an overhaul or major repairs.

Cleaner Emissions: New technology has cleaned up the diesel combustion process, reducing the amount of harmful greenhouse emissions and virtually eliminating diesel soot from the exhaust.

Alternative Fuel Solutions: Supporter of alternative fuels? Then you may like the future of diesel fuel. Biodiesel is currently becoming readily available across the United States and its popularity is growing. A great characteristic of biodiesel is that it can be made out of many different items, including corn and other vegetation, used vegetable oil, garbage and waste material, and even algae. Biodiesel is a growing solution to the fuel crisis, and it burns clean. However, you will not be putting this in your gasoline powered vehicle anytime soon.

Diesel Vehicles Are on the Rebound

?Diesel Vehicles Are on the Rebound

Diesel vehicles are on the rebound. Diesel engines are much more powerful and fuel-efficient than similar-sized gasoline engines (about 30-35% more fuel efficient). Despite what you might remember from the past, these types of vehicles are much improved.

They emit less carbon then in the past. Today’s diesels must meet the same emissions standards as gasoline vehicles, and advances in engine technologies, and improved exhaust treatment have made this possible.

What is diesel fuel? It is generally accepted as a blend of petroleum-derived compounds called middle distillates (heavier than gasoline but lighter than lube oil) and can or cannot contain additional additives.

The major difference between the gasoline engine and the diesel engine is that the gasoline engine uses a an otto cycle. The otto cycle is a spark-ignition cycle instead of a compression-ignition cycle like the diesel cycle. Spark-ignition cycles are designed to use fuels that require a spark to begin combustion.The combustion combines the vaporized mixture of gasoline and air is delivered to the combustion chamber, where it’s then compressed and ignited by a spark plug.

In the Diesel cycle, air is compressed during the compression stroke and fuel is injected into hot, compressed air in the cylinder, spontaneously igniting the fuel. Because of this, the diesel is sometimes referred to as a compression ignition engine in contrast to a spark ignition engine

Unfortunately there are more vehicles in Europe and Asian countries running on diesel today then in America. Americans are still sold on the idea of gasoline, even though a diesel engine performs better and uses less fuel. The choices that we have in diesel vehicles are sparse we have the pick up trucks like the Ford F250 or the larger passenger vans like the Ford E250. Gratefully things are going to change dramatically in just the next decade. Manufactures will begin to offer many models to meet the growing demand for high fuel economy vehicles. Honda boost that it will have a new model out (probably an Accord) for the United States in three years. GM has announced a light-truck engine for 2010. Meanwhile, Daimler-Chrysler has introduced the Mercedes diesel. Also Jeep Grand Cherokee will have one next year. Volkswagen also has several diesel vehicles on the market.

While in the past diesel might not be thought of as a think green type of fuel. With its growing emission control and its fuel economy we are turning the other way and now considering this type of fuel environmentally friendly.

While we believe that it is going to be a considerable amount of time before we see a break through of diesel vehicles in the United States, if at all, given the new momentum that the Hybrid vehicles are mounting. We believe that this type of fuel and this type of automobile are a good alternative to gas engines. Given the fact that they use less energy which means a considerable of savings for the consumer.

Keep “”Thinking Green”” my friends.

Making Biodiesel at Home – Part 1

?Making Biodiesel at Home – Part 1

Hi! On behalf of Parleys Diesel Performance and Utah biodiesel supply we’re now going to show you how to make a large batch of biodiesel. We’re going to show you how we collect out oil, we’ll talk a little bit about how we filter our oil, how we transfer that oil into a biodiesel processer, how we do the process, and then how we use the fuel. We’re going to talk about various things along the way so let’s get started.

First of all we have a shop, that we go out and collect oil in 55 gallon drums. We put these drums behind restaurants that we’ve contracted with, and they put oil into these drums, and then we bring them back to this shop on the back of a truck. We have a lift-gate on the back of the truck so it makes it really easy to swap them in and out. A lot of people try to collect oil using pumps, they’ll go and they’ll actually pump the oil, and we tried that for a little while, but a lift-gate was just so much easier. They’re about 2,500 to 3,500 dollars but they are the best thing in the world. If you get one be sure you don’t let your uncles, aunts, friends, and everyone else know because soon you’ll be transporting pianos down the street. They’re just a wonderful piece of equipment to have on a truck. However, what we have when we go to collect oil is, we’ll bring a barrel back here, bring it right to about here, and then we’ll get out a filter. And this looks nice and kind of grimy. It’s a four-hundred micron baron filter. We put it over the barrel, and we filter the oil. Once our filtered oil is done we’ll haul it to a production facility that I’ll show you in a moment, and we make the biodiesel.

I want to tell you a little bit about what we use here. Remember in our smaller setting we talked about using methanol, lye, and oil. Well, up here is our methanol. This methanol is a 325 gallon tank. Most of you won’t need anything this large, but we make so much fuel we get this delivered to us. Then we go through it and we take it back to our area. You can get it pretty cheap when you get it this way. This is a 55 gallon drum. This is typically how methanol is purchased. This is one common way. The easiest way to transport it home, it can be put on the back of a pick-up. And then when you get it home you get to transport it into the back of your biodiesel processor.

These are our glycerin barrels, and as we produced our fuel if you’ll remember right we had our byproduct of glycerin. So we just take that glycerin out of the machine and we’ll come over here and we pour this glycerin right into these barrels. The glycerin’s going to contain crude glycerin, some soap, some catalyst, and some methanol. We cap these barrels up, we use our lift-gate, we throw it on the back of the truck, and we haul it over to a waste water treatment plant where they take it off our hands. They add it to their methane digester which produces methane gas they use to run their generators. We get rid of it that way. They don’t charge us for it, we don’t get paid to get it taken off our hands, but it’s a nice way to get rid of it. Once we get the glycerin out of here we then can take the fuel out of here and make biodiesel with it. I’ll show you in a moment how we make the fuel.

After we have our oil filtered, in a drum such as this, we get a sump pump. And all this is is a good old cheap sump pump from Home Depot, Lowe’s, what have you. We’ve mounted a big pipe on it, and a tube, and we use this to fill the machine full of oil. We just turn it on, it works great, we put these drum on dollies so that we can move them over to our equipment, and we’re able to make biodiesel. A moment ago we showed you some methanol. This is a methanol drum right here. This is just a pump that we’ve attached to it so that we can quickly pump methanol into our machine. We’re going to make a batch today so you can see how that works as well. Methanol, oil, and then if he pans over to my side over here, this is lots and lots of catalyst. This particular catalyst contains potassium hydroxide, and we use it to make biodiesel. Remember it takes methanol, oil, and catalyst to make fuel. Behind me is on the right is fuel. This is biodiesel that we have produced in our machines. We’ll show you how that’s done, and this fuel is ready to use in diesel pickups. Again remember it’s being made for about a dollar a gallon, and we are able to save ourselves a lot of money by using what normal people would throw away. Welcome to biodiesel, we’ll show you how to filter, we’ll make a batch, and be on our way.

Once we’ve brought our oil into our warehouse we have to filter it. In order to make biodiesel it’s a really good idea to filter it so you get all your crustys and crunchys out. This is just a 55-gallon drum strainer. It’s a 400 micron. It’s the one that we personally use. It looks kind of gross and uky but we’ve probably put about 3,500 gallons of fuel through this filter. So they’re really durable and they last long. It’s just a poly based filter. You can get them on most sites. Take a look at my site I carry them as well. We’re going to put the filter on, we’re going to take our oil and just simply poor it through it. Now, oil coming from restaurants is really gross, and nasty. As you see there are some crustys and stuff in here, and as you notice it doesn’t like to go through this really quick so we get ourselves a spatula with rounded corners, and we just scrape back and forth to let those crustys go out. So this oil is just going to filter through. Can you hear it filtering down in there? Once it’s filtered we’ll take it into our lab or into our shop and make biodiesel. So we’re going to kind of let this sit here for a while while we go do that. One thing I want to show you though, a lot of times you’re going to get really thicky crap oil and you need to get rid of the crustys. So we cut a car boy open which is what your going to typically get oil in, and we just scrape it into there. So again I’m just moving back and forth real slow. You can see some of those chunks that I’m getting out of that. It’s usually food particles and stuff from the grill, it’s French fries, just all that stuff they put in the oil over at the restaurant that you really don’t want in your fuel. Particularly in your truck, okay? I’m just going to filter that out, and our next step is showing you how we load our machine, full of oil. Then we’re going to make a batch. So we’ll see you in a second.

Our next step is we’ve filtered the oil so now it’s time to make the biodiesel. Remember from before, to make biodiesel you need a heated mixture, so I happen to have sitting next to me one heck of a heated mixture. This is a stainless steel piece of equipment with a giant mixer in it, and a big heater on the bottom. It allows me to make biodiesel very quickly, and in a fairly automated fashion. Now to make biodiesel you don’t need something like this, but we make so much that we like it. Let me tell you just how much we make. You’ve seen the fuel sitting behind me a minute ago. Last year alone we made 6,800 gallons of fuel that we used in a wide variety of diesel pickups. Anything from an 07 Duramax down to a 93 F350 to the stapid large DT466 with an international harvester engine, and we’re running biodiesel in all of those. We have a Ford, Chevy, and a Dodge that we run it in so we’ve got it all across the gammit.

We know about what it’s going to do. We’re in Utah here and we are cold outside and in the winters we are starting to blend. We make primarily our biodiesel from canola oil, canola is wonderful cold flow added diesel properties, so when it gets down to about 50 degrees we start blending. Before that we can pretty much handle it. Some of our diesels are a little bit more sensitive, others aren’t. Pretty much if it’s a diesel it will handle biodiesel, and handle it really well. That’s anything from dump trucks, to big earth movers, to farm equipment, to tiny little TIs. You name it if it’s got a diesel engine in it and it’s direct injected or indirect injected chances are it will run on biodiesel. Believe it or not, Rudolph Diesel when he made the biodiesel engine his goal was to have an engine that was ubiquitous with all sorts of oils, and biodiesel just happens to be one of those that will run in it.

Diesel Truck Rod and Main Bearings

?Diesel Truck Rod and Main Bearings

I would like to talk about when you truckers should replace those rod and main bearings to make your Diesel motor last forever. Unlimited miles!

Rod and main bearings used to get replaced from around 200,000 to 3 or 400,000 miles. The diesel engine bearings and the oil we run now a days makes them last much longer. But I have been finding that a lot of or I should say most truck drivers are avoiding changing them and taking a chance that they will make it to the next overhaul. But the time in between these is also changing to record numbers.

When to change them tho is the question since every diesel motor is different and is always changing.

Here we go I am going to give you a few and see if yours falls into one of them.

Detroit diesel 60 series 6 to 800,000 miles depending if hauling rock to over the road. I have seen them spin on out anywhere between 800,000 to mil 200,000 miles I have seen overhauls last to mil 6 or 8 before needing liner o rings and usually just gets overhauled since there but I would not of been scared to just use knowledge and little cleanup time and just re seal the motor if it would have had good bearings because everything else was very reusable.

If it was mine I would have saved a few thousand and took the chance it wasn’t using oil so why change it. I have done head gaskets and not changed the Cyls’s and their still running daily With hundreds of thousands of miles more on them. The pistons hardly ever wear any at all. I have done it to a few tight truckers diesel engine and it worked great.

Cat engines are about the same mileage. The bigger the cat the longer you can go. Cat is a rpm motor to create power. The smaller the diesel engine the harder it cranks and the smaller the bearing. If your running a C 13 or smaller change them before 800,000 or else! Most motor replacements have been cat smaller engines from spinning a bearing. 8 hours labor and $200 in parts is one hell of allot cheaper than $ 10,000 Eng plus core charges in the thousands plus labor and a few bugs to work out. The bigger cats I have seen bearings out of them up to mil 400,000 and they were shot but the cat cyl’s just don’t make it they wear out from the outside and pit through and or liner o rings blow out and put coolant in the oil.

Cummins engines are the hardest on bearings they are more of a stoker diesel motor. Low end torque! This beats the bearings out but this is one of my most favorite motors to work on to make last for ever! Esp N14! N14 requires bearings every 500,000 you can go longer but the bearings look horrible and lots of brass showing. I have found the motors with this interval seem to last for ever and this is a motor that was designed like much larger motors that were make to fix one or 2 cyl’s at a time and last forever. Only reason to ever replace a block and crank is if you have a big hole in the block and it is almost imposable to do this unless you have very unusual special circumstances. L10 , M11, ISM 6 to 800,000 this motor will spin out of pushed to far. I have seen them with allot more miles but I have seen the larger percentage of these diesel engines not make it! ISX 1 mill This motor has been very good even tho its not my favorite and have had lots of complaints on HP Idling ect ect it seems to be a very low maintenance motor. ERG seems to be its only downfall. That’s a never ending expense!

Mercedes diesel this motor reminds me allot of smaller Cat diesels in the bearing department. Not many make it to mil without changing the bearings. It has very small bearings in it compared to others.

If you follow these guidelines for changing your rod and main bearings your diesel motor may out last you!

Ask trucker diesel doc.

8 Reasons Your Next Truck Should Be Powered by a Diesel Engine

?8 Reasons Your Next Truck Should Be Powered by a Diesel Engine

Better Fuel Economy: Diesel engines use compression ignition instead of spark plugs to start the combustion process. Using compression as the ignition source, combined with the higher energy content of diesel fuel, provides a much more efficient engine which requires less fuel to operate than a gasoline engine. A diesel engine is also able to operate at peak torque at lower RPM, like you would typically see at cruising speeds, further boosting fuel economy.

More Power: A turbodiesel engine can produce much more peak torque than a gasoline engine of equal size, and maintain peak torque over a broader RPM spectrum.This provides for much more power throughout the operating range, less downshifts for improved fuel economy, and increased payload ratings.

Higher Towing Capability: Due to the stout structure and additional torque of a diesel engine, payloads on diesel powered trucks are much higher than those on similarly sized gasoline V8 powered trucks. If you have something large to tow, a diesel will make the task much easier and provide the best fuel economy possible while loaded.

Aftermarket Support: Diesel powered trucks are receiving much more attention from the aftermarket than gasoline powered trucks due partly to the fact that diesel engines are easy to tune for more performance. Where a few simple bolt on parts may increase your gas powered truck’s performance by 50-75 horsepower, the same parts could take your diesel to extreme performance levels. How does an additional 200-350 horsepower sound? (Based on performance testing of a tuner, cold air intake, and exhaust system; the three most common and readily available engine modifications.)

Driving Experience: If your any sort of automotive enthusiast, or just like a truck that can run through the gears fast, diesel is the way to go. Just remember to hang on once the turbocharger spools, because you will be in for one wild ride. Diesel engines produce gobs of torque at low RPM, which pushes you back in your seat as the truck takes off when you start getting into the throttle.

Engine Longevity: Diesel engines operate at lower RPM and have much stronger engine parts than comparable gasoline engines. This translates into increased engine life, with diesel engines generally lasting up to 2x longer than gasoline engines before needing an overhaul or major repairs.

Cleaner Emissions: New technology has cleaned up the diesel combustion process, reducing the amount of harmful greenhouse emissions and virtually eliminating diesel soot from the exhaust.

Alternative Fuel Solutions: Supporter of alternative fuels? Then you may like the future of diesel fuel. Biodiesel is currently becoming readily available across the United States and its popularity is growing. A great characteristic of biodiesel is that it can be made out of many different items, including corn and other vegetation, used vegetable oil, garbage and waste material, and even algae. Biodiesel is a growing solution to the fuel crisis, and it burns clean. However, you will not be putting this in your gasoline powered vehicle anytime soon.

Diesel Truck MPG – Beating Gasoline Engines For More Miles Per Gallon

?Diesel Truck MPG – Beating Gasoline Engines For More Miles Per Gallon

Often times the diesel engine truck is used to haul very heavy items, opting to pick a diesel engine will not only benefit for the heavy load, but it will also help with the miles per gallon (mpg). Diesel truck mpg is much better than that of gasoline engines. While regular unleaded gasoline runs more smoothly and is easier to find, the engine that runs on diesel fuel should still be considered when buying a new truck.

If a consumer is in the market for a new truck and they need to haul heavy loads regularly, that person should probably stick with diesel. Since diesel trucks can get better mileage (for they are built to go 250,000 miles more) they are ideal for heavy loads and many trips back and forth. Because of all these reasons, and although diesel trucks tend to cost more, they will end up being well worth the money in the long run.

One reason diesel fuel might have a higher cost than most gas is that it has higher energy content than gasoline, and diesel performance is usually better in terms of engine output. These reasons also mean that vehicles running on diesel put less global-warming pollution into the air. Thanks to its higher energy content and its efficient combustion process, diesel performance enables cars and trucks to travel at least 30% farther on a gallon of fuel than comparable gasoline models. The improved efficiency of diesel engines can also help reduce oil consumption.

Many dealerships are not offering a choice of either a diesel engine or a gasoline engine. While both are equal in different ways, the diesel engines have less keep up. Gasoline engines need a tune up every thirty thousand miles, while a diesel engine can go much longer without a tune up.

General Motors, Ford and many other companies are doing extensive research on putting forth a car that does not run on gasoline, but currently there are many consumers that are opting for a diesel engine over a gasoline engine. While most gasoline engines are a standard in cars, in order to keep diesel truck mpg down, a lot of companies are making the diesel engine a standard in most trucks. Hybrid trucks are also becoming quite a popular commodity as well, but until the price of hybrid trucks goes down, the diesel truck will still be one of the best choices.

Valve Engine

?Last Days of the 2010 Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8L 3-

A quick glance at the 2010 Ford F-250 Super Duty engine options reveals three potent power plants. The factory offers a 5.4L V8, a 6.8L V10, and a 6.4L turbo-diesel V8. For performance enthusiasts, the 6.8L V10 continues to provide exhilarating performance. Regardless of the success of this lineup, the selection within the truck series is about to change.

The 3-valve SOHC V10 was originally introduced in 2005. Initially, power output was rated at 310 hp and 425 lbs.-ft. torque. Over the last five years, continuous factory improvements increased maximum output to 362 hp and 457 lbs.-ft. torque. The original aluminum head design used three valves per cylinder that were actuated by a single overhead camshaft. Because of the success of the unique head design, current models continue using the same configuration.

According to factory representatives, production of the V10 power plant will be phased out later this year. The 6.2L Boss V8 will replace the legendary V10. The 6.2L Boss should produce approximately 500 hp. Perhaps the substitution is intended to regain dominance over the top-performing power plant available in the GMC 2500HD now rated at 360 hp.

The new 6.2L Boss will also be available in F-150 and F-350 series trucks. Because of the large horsepower increase, industry watchers anticipate record performance gains in all weight classes in 2011. Other 2010 Ford F-250 Super Duty engine options will remain unchanged next year. For heavy industrial use and towing, the 3-valve turbo-diesel delivers a stump-pulling 650 lbs.-ft. of torque.

Truck fans across the country regret seeing the V10 vanish. Nevertheless, full factory support is assured through all applicable warranty periods. In addition, the availability of aftermarket parts guarantees continued support for years to come. As always, as one champion disappears into history, a new champion appears to regain dominance.

Diesel Pulling Trucks – What Are They2

?Diesel Pulling Trucks – What Are They?

Diesel pulling trucks are a different kind of species in the automobile jungle. They are big like wrestling stars and they gulp diesel like hungry kids. Trucks cannot be judged by the characteristics that we normally use to assess the vehicles, such as sleekness in structure and fuel efficiency. They are normally rated by their overall efficiency and functional durability. The longer the time a truck can go on without getting repair work, the better will be the rating of the truck. Since trucks are used to carry heavier items to longer distances, its ability to pull the heavy containers continuously for long periods and distances is also a rating aspect.

Diesel pulling trucks are utilized for a variety of purposes. These are basically used for taking heavy loads of goods from one place to another safely. These are used in construction industry for taking the construction equipment and materials from one worksite to another. These are also used for carrying raw materials from various sites to factories in various industries. And then, take various finished products from the factories to shops. Companies that function in logistics sector also make use of these trucks.

In the United States of America, there are mainly four companies engaged in the manufacturing and marketing of diesel pulling trucks. These companies are Ford Motors, General Motors, Dodge, and Toyota. Recently there was a legislation change regarding the emission standard of these vehicles. Earlier, it was found that the level of air pollution and noise caused by the big trucks are too high for comfort. As a result, the companies are manufacturing trucks that comply with the newly formed tighter emission standards. But all the companies have succeeded in incorporating the required changes without affecting its pulling efficiency and mileage.

Of the four companies that manufacture diesel pulling trucks, Ford Motors make the trucks in the United States. The same can be said about Toyota trucks. At the same time, Dodge trucks are made in Mexico. General Motors create these trucks from their factory in Canada. Because of these widely known facts, some truck watchers have termed trucks made by Ford Motors and Toyota as truly American products. The trucks command tremendous loyalty from satisfied customers. A truck has to be solid and be able to survive arduous journeys.

But there are several criticisms regarding the new models of diesel pulling trucks. Although the noise level and air pollution levels are considerably decreased, the critics argue that, the trucks have become less convenient for its fundamental function: that of carrying goods. Some blame it on decrease in storage space, while some blame it on increased height of the career platform. But everybody agrees that the new trucks are more fuel-efficient and have better speed.

5 Secrets to Increase the Fuel Economy and Mileage of a Diesel Pickup1

?5 Secrets to Increase the Fuel Economy and Mileage of a Diesel Pickup

This is probably the number one asked question we get every day. More so with the new trucks coming out. They have enough power to satisfy the owner’s needs, but the high price of diesel fuel is keep fuel economy front and center in everyone’s mind. The following tips apply to all diesel trucks including Ford Powerstrokes, Dodge Cummins, and the Chevy/GMC Duramax. They are very basic steps that you can do for little or no money that may help you gain a few miles per gallon. There are many other expensive things like programmers that will dramatically increase horsepower, but we are just looking at relatively inexpensive things the average guy can do to increase his mileage a little without spending a bunch of extra money.

1. Maintenance:

You would think this may be a no-brainer, but you would be surprised by the number of trucks that pass through our shop that run completely different after we give it a full service. If you want the most efficiency out of your diesel pickup, you need to make sure every vehicle system is working properly. I can not stress enough how important clean fuel and air filters are to the proper operation of your truck. If either of those filters are not up to full capacity, your horsepower will suffer. You will have to run the truck much harder to do the same work. A plugged up air filter can rob 15-50 horsepower. Likewise, oil that is way overdue for change loses it’s lubricity and causes extra drag. It simply isn’t doing as good of a job as fresh new oil will. This extra drag robs power. This is also true for transmission, transfer case, and differential oils. If your gears have to spin through thick, broke down sludge, it will rob a little horsepower which in turns lowers the efficiency of the truck as a whole. So in short, get on a maintenance schedule that includes all fluids, filters, and service items. If your truck has 75K+ miles on it and you haven’t ever changed the trans or dif oils, it may be a good time to do a little extra maintenance.

2. Synthetic Lubricants:

Ok, to be honest I have always be skeptical of many of the claims that come on the side of the synthetic lubricant bottles. I have probably had at least two hundred Amsoil salesmen telling me about how great the oil is and if I just swap out all the truck’s oil, I could pick up two or three miles per gallon. Now, I can’t knock either Amsoil or Royal Purple. I have used both for years in many of my performance vehicles and they provide excellent protection. I have no doubts on their superior lubrication abilities in demanding conditions. But what about these mileage claims? Well, believe it or not, they are true! We have had many customers over the years who will bring their truck in for a complete switch over. We changed every bit of oil in the truck to synthetic oils including: engine oil, trans oil, transfer case, and both front and rear differentials. I was finally convinced of the mileage increase when we switched over a few of our customers who run hot shot truck companies. These guys rack up crazy miles every month and wanted to switch to synthetic to be able to extend oil life along with the added protection for such hard working trucks. They also are meticulous about keeping track of mileage. On average, they all picked up two miles per gallon after switching to synthetic. The synthetic oils just do a better job of lubricating the moving parts of the truck therefore providing less drag. Any time we can free up a few horsepower to use to move the load, fuel economy will go up.

3. Check Your Boost:

This could probably go under the maintenance topic, but it is so important, it deserves it’s own area for discussion. A lot of people seem uninterested in the boost level of their engine. I hear all the time, “”I don’t need a boost gauge. It serves no purpose, it’s just fun to watch.”” While that may be true most of the time, the real purpose of a boost gauge isn’t just to see how much boost you are making in a performance application. Boost is very important to a turbocharged diesel’s performance. It varies from truck to truck, but boost is in direct relation to how much power your truck is making. Very simply put: more boost = more power. So, why have a boost gauge? If you know your truck for it’s power level is suppose to have 20 psi of boost, you can catch small problems that go unnoticed by most. These small problems are bleeding off boost somewhere in the system and lowering the power output of your engine. The average driver is not going to notice the difference in the seat of their pants between 18 psi and 20 psi.

So many folks will continue to drive around wondering why they aren’t getting as much power and mileage as they used to. If they had a boost gauge they would have a clue to where to start looking. Perhaps there is a loose clamp or torn intercooler boot. Maybe a slight leak in the exhaust piping that drives the turbo. Or perhaps the air filter or fuel filter is starting to get dirty. A loss in boost pressure always is a sign of a problem somewhere on the engine. If you are always keeping an eye on it, you can catch these little problems long before you would normally and consistently have a great running truck. It is not unusual for a truck to come into the shop with the complaint of low power or bad fuel economy and we find it is only making half of the boost it should. Further probing may find a dirty air filter, bad turbo, or a host of other problems. The sad part is the customer has driven the truck around like that for a couple of months because they didn’t really have an idea that they had a problem. It just didn’t seem to run as good as it used to and the problems usually get worse so gradually that they don’t think to start checking for problems. If they had a boost gauge they would have known long before it made it to us.

4. Keep Your RPM’s Down:

As diesel pickups become more popular and more used ones are out there, there are more people than ever switching over from gas engines. The big problem is they are still driving them like a gas engine. And if you want to drive that way, you will not hurt the engine at all, but your fuel economy will suffer. For best fuel economy, diesels in general just like to loaf while doing their work. While the newest trucks are making some impressive horsepower up in the higher rpms, low end torque is where it is at for ultimate fuel economy. If you are trying to scratch out every last mile per gallon, go easy on that throttle pedal. Use only the minimum amount of throttle to get to your desired speed. As quick as you can get your truck in overdrive and let the torque move the load down the road, the better the fuel economy you will get. We have a customer who has a really nice 7.3 Powerstroke that we take care of. He drives the truck very easy and to be honest, you would think the throttle pedal was made of glass and he was afraid of breaking it by pushing to hard. He constantly get 25-26 mpg with that truck. If his son takes it, he can get no better than 18 mpg. Of course his son drives it with a little more spirit than dad does. 😉

5. Let It Breathe:

So in conclusion, if you were to follow all five of these steps outlined above, I would not be surprised to see a two to five mile per gallon gain depending on the present condition of your truck. Perhaps you already are following these steps right now. If you are, good for you. You are in the minority of diesel owners. If you are not, there is not time like today to get started!

To improve the efficiency of the engine, we need to get more air in and more air back out. For a bump in fuel economy I suggest doing a little work on the fresh air intake side of the engine and the exhaust side as well. Now I know I said we were not going to try to spend a bunch of money here trying to get more fuel economy and you’re probably wondering about this one. I would also like to let you know that we carry a full line of performance exhausts and cold air intake kits for all diesel trucks from many different manufacturers. (shameless I know) But to be honest, if you are looking to help out a completely stock truck you may not need to go to all the expense to see some improvement. Don’t get me wrong, a 4″” free flowing exhaust and cold air intake is definitely the best way to go if you have the scratch, but a little diy work may show you some benefit.

First and foremost, any diesel truck that has a catalytic converter will almost always see better performance from removing it. (check your local emission laws first) There are many ways to do this. The cheapest would be to remove it and beat the material out of it. The second would be to cut it out and install a section of the same size pipe you buy from a truck shop. Just getting that out of there will usually net you a mile per gallon or so and a better running truck. For extra credit, you could remove the muffler as well. That also will help a little if you don’t mind the noise. On the intake side, just adding a K&N style free flowing air filter will help out tremendously. These filters will flow more air which usually will lower your exhaust gas temperatures and increases horsepower. We have had customers report a one mile per gallon increase by just doing this swap. It makes sense money wise since you can usually buy a reusable filter like the K&N or S&B for one and half to two times the price of a regular air filter. The second time you would have to change the regular air filter, the performance one is paid for. You are saving money from there on out.

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